Friday, 18 September 2015

Lilith and Eve ~ Drapey Blouse


Based in Philadelphia USA, Sarah and Nicole introduce this début pattern from Lilith and Eve.
Quote from their website... "Lilith & Eve is all about versatility of design. Each garment can be worn two very different ways to match our two very different ladies' styles." 

This is the Lilith and Eve Drapey Blouse and I chose the style of Eve; the long sleeve version


I found this pattern to be absolutely great and not so great if that makes sense?! First off, the design is awesome. Obviously that's why I bought it! I'm still not convinced that unfitted clothes are all that on me but hey ho, as I always say if I  want to make something, I'll make it! I just loved the shaped yokes and check out that back drape....!


I don't remember how I stumbled across this pattern, but when I did, it was only available as a PDF. There was a link to be notified when the paper pattern became available, so I opted in. Then one day, back in August, there it was! Ready to purchase in paper. Woop! I had fabric eagerly awaiting for it's arrival, but August is as good as a no-sew month for me and as I already had my previous make cut out, this had to wait a little longer. I never jump the queue with sewing. If it's cut, it's made next. That's the law! The Dawn Law. I am a completer finisher. If I start it, I finish it before moving on.


Anyways, moving on indeed... back to the blouse in question and the not so greats. First thing I noticed with this pattern is that the yoke isn't interfaced. An over- sight perhaps? But I think not, as there was also no interfacing for the cuffs yet there were directions to interface the front facing. No matter, I interfaced mine.
I also found the steps for attaching the yoke lining to be totally confusing?!! The pattern instructions say that there is a tutorial on the Lilith and Eve website explaining this method more clearly. There isn't. At least not yet anyway...

**UPDATE** I had a lovely email today (27/9/15) to say that this tutorial is now up and running. It is. And it's good! You can find it HERE

Oh! And there is a tonne of ease in the sleeve head. I steam pressed and I pressed to try and smooth out all thE excess but I'm still not happy with them. I would reduce the ease if I made this again. 

That said, I do love this pattern! This is cut true to the measurements on the envelope. I cut Size 4 (my measurements size) and this fits absolutely perfectly. Even the lower blouse part which is a loose fit, has just the right amount of fullness in it without it being too baggy. At first I didn't think there was enough gathers on the front bodice. They are barely there. Believe me, The Big 4 have more ease in their patterns than this has gathers!! But you know what, when this is on, those gathers are just enough. Subtle.



One other alteration I made was to narrow the sleeves and cuff. I don't like my cuffs swinging around my wrists so I reduced the lower sleeve by 2" and tapered it from just above the elbow. Obviously I reduced the cuff width accordingly by the same amount.
Btw, does anyone know the correct finished length for sleeves? I find if they finish at my wrists, they are then too short when I move or bend my arms! So I have them a tad longer. 

There are some helpful tips in the pattern instructions for those that need it. Using Ban Roll for the hem was one of them but I couldn't for the life of me find any available in the UK and the link on the website didn't work either. So with that and the tutorial not available I'm thinking that the website is still a work in progress..?
Anyhows, back to the hem. I was going to buy the Ban roll just to try and test the method, but as this was not to be, I did a baby hem using this Tutorial by Devon Iott. My fabric is light and drapey and this method was perfect.

For the buttons, I covered my own so that the yoke buttons had the lower bodice fabric and the lower bodice had the contrast cream buttons from the yoke fabric.
I bought hemline self cover buttons (11mm) and these were easier to do than I thought! There is a template on the back of the packaging to draw around so you know exactly what size the fabric needs to be for your button size. Mine were 11mm buttons and it just so happened that the template size for these is exactly the same as a 1 pence piece. So I used one of these to draw around.

You then cut out the fabric, gather all around the edge and pull up the gathers tightly around the button

Attach the back gripper and you're done!



To Read my Sewing Pattern Review CLICK HERE

Thanks for stopping by and taking time to read :)

Happy Sewing!
Dawn :)x

8 comments:

  1. What a great blouse - subtly different yet still classic. Strange about the interfacing - but then you know what is needed where, but a beginner would be stumped. Love the way you have swapped the button fabric. And you are doing the right thing in wearing this - loose and drapey on top means fitted below. I'm like you as well - no UFO's - although I will prepare the next project while working on the one before sometimes.

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  2. This is a very interesting pattern. I haven't heard of this company before but will be looking them up promptly! When I measure my sleeves, I bend my arm slightly and place the bottom of the hem just below the bone that sticks out on your wrist. This length seems to be perfect for me and isn't too long when your arm is straight. Great top!

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    1. Thanks Star! And thanks for the tip about the sleeves. Re the pattern company, as far as I am aware, this is currently their only pattern atm x

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  3. Wow - what an interesting design! You look great. As for sleeve length, I do the same as Stars Threads does. It works quite nicely for me.

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  4. Ohh... that is a lovely blouse! Love the fabric combo and back detail. Your self-cover buttons are very cute :)
    About the sleeve length, I do the same as Star Threads.

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